Caring for amaryllis in winter: how to store the plant, the necessary conditions and what parasites and diseases exist?

With a fairly cool climate in our region, one of the most beloved houseplants is amaryllis blooming in winter.

Modern varieties of this native of the warm countries of Africa can be of completely different color shades - from pure white to purple, dark crimson and, oddly enough, green. Representatives of this species with striped or double flowers are also present.

This bulbous plant is considered one of probably the most convenient for distillation at home, which even an inexperienced amateur grower can afford.

Growth Features

Given that amaryllis blooms exclusively in the second half of winter, it is necessary to adhere to the seasonal rules for keeping this flower. There are few such rules, but nevertheless they exist, and especially with regard to the winter period. To understand some of the features of such seasonal features for the care of amaryllis, let's gradually trace the entire life cycle of the plant.

Bulb germination begins with the appearance of plump light-colored roots on its bottom.
After rooting, the active growth of a powerful and strong peduncle begins.
When the peduncle reaches a certain length, inflorescences form on its top and they alternate (sometimes simultaneously) open, that is, the plant begins to bloom.
At the end of flowering, the peduncle gradually fades, and the amaryllis begins to actively grow foliage.
From mid-September to spring, the amaryllis begins a so-called dormant period.

Many lovers of breeding indoor plants are not fully familiar with how to properly prepare this flower for winter "hibernation". Consider what and how to perform.

About the nuances of planting and growing amaryllis, as well as the rules for caring for a flower, read here.

Winter Condition

As mentioned above, Amaryllis lasts a period of active vegetation for 7-8 months. During this time, the bulb of the plant gives all its strength, first to pasture a powerful and fleshy peduncle, then to two to three weeks flowering, after which all remaining forces go into the growth of also sufficiently powerful and large leaves.

It is not at all surprising that after such a vegetative "marathon" the plant needs some period of time to recover.

The dormant period is simply necessary for the amaryllises to restore the bulbs to the subsequent growth and flowering cycles.

Exactly like this the dormancy period begins in Amaryllis in the second half of Septemberwhen the plant dumps all the foliage, slows down the vegetation processes and prepares for wintering.

On its own, the plant cannot completely stop the internal processes of growth, so it needs the help of a grower.

How to store?

After we notice that the foliage of the plant begins to lose its usually pronounced dark green color and fade, the amaryllis must immediately be helped to go to the dormant stage.

Conditions

The temperature regime for the wintering of amaryllis bulbs should be such as to prevent vegetative processes from starting. The temperature should be within + 2 + 15 degrees. Another necessary condition should be the absence of light and low humidity in the room where the amaryllis will winter.

Step-by-step instruction

If the flower is not helped to go to the dormant stage, its growth and the formation of new leaves will continue, which will greatly weaken the bulb and within 1-2 years the plant will lose its ability to bloom (about why amaryllis does not bloom and how to make it release buds, read here ) To do this, take the following measures:

gradually stop or minimize watering the flower;
when all the leaves turn yellow, sagging, they must be completely cut off, and the bulb should be moved to a dark and fairly cool place (pantry, basement, not very heated garage, etc.).

I would like to note a very common mistake of amateur gardeners who send amaryllis to rest without removing the bulb from the ground, that is, together with the pot. This is strongly discouraged. After complete withering of all the foliage present on the plant, it must, as already mentioned a little above, be completely removed.

After that the amaryllis bulb should be carefully removed from the pot with planting soil. Then it is necessary to carefully free the plant rhizomes from this same planting soil, simultaneously checking to see if the bulb has damaged or dried parts of the root and, if any, remove them using small scissors.

After such preliminary preparation, the bulb can be sent to rest in a cool and dark place where it will recover for 3-5 months and gain strength for the next vegetation cycle.

In order to avoid damage to the bulb, which is at rest, infections or pests can before sending the bulb to rest, wash it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and then dry. Also, as an additional precaution, you can wrap each onion with napkins or ordinary toilet paper.

Approximately every 12-15 days, it is recommended to remove the bulbs from the store and conduct, so to speak, their inspection for any damage.

Parasite control

During periodic examinations of the bulbs, it may be found that any parasites began to affect them, the fungus or insect pests got to the bulbs. In this case, it is highly recommended that you follow these steps:

First things first, it is necessary to isolate damaged specimens of amaryllis onions from intact so that the fungus or infection does not pass to the latter.
Bulbs damaged by the pest should be brought into a warm room and re-treated with mild manganese solution or specialized means intended for disinfection of bulb plants.
After processing with such disinfectants, it is imperative to let the bulbs dry well.
For re-wrapping the treated amaryllis bulbs in no case should you use the same paper in which they were wrapped before. You should take fresh clean wipes or clean layers of toilet paper.
After all the preparations, the amaryllis onions should be sent back to the storage in a dark and cool room.

Read more about why amaryllis leaves turn yellow, pests and fungal diseases appear, as well as how to cure a flower, read here.

Amaryllis is not only an example of beauty among flowers of this kind, but also a very, very unpretentious and easy to care plant. With proper maintenance in winter conditions, the bulb, planted in a flower pot in mid-February, by the end of March will be able to please its owner of extraordinary beauty with flowering.